A history of surfing in America by a man who grew up surfing southern California in the 1970s and was there through all the big developments. This book will look at how the sport developed, the science of big waves, surfer personalities, the evolution of boards, and surf culture from movies to rock'n'roll to hot rodding. Along with the narrative text will be a large archives of surfing memorabilia, movie posters,album covers, and pop art. With photographs and artwork by Jeff Divine, John Severson, LeRoy Grannis, Ron Dahlquist, Rick Griffin, Greg Noll, Doc Ball, and more.Abstract: A history of surfing in America by a man who grew up surfing southern California in the 1970s and was there through all the big developments. This book will look at how the sport developed, the science of big waves, surfer personalities, the evolution of boards, and surf culture from movies to rock'n'roll to hot rodding. Along with the narrative text will be a large archives of surfing memorabilia, movie posters, album covers, and pop art. With photographs and artwork by Jeff Divine, John Severson, LeRoy Grannis, Ron Dahlquist, Rick Griffin, Greg Noll, Doc Ball, and more